DESTINATION: COTONOU

Cotonou, Benin's gateway city, is situated on the Gulf of Guinea and boasts a bustling street life full of vendors, friendly people, and good food. Most travelers from Europe and the United States begin their trip in Cotonou, since it is the site of the international airport and in-country travel is most easily arranged here. Cotonou is Benin's largest city and home to many governmental and diplomatic offices. Travelers will appreciate its restaurants, markets, and nightlife.

ATTRACTIONS

Artisanal Center: This center, located off of Boulevard Saint Michel, sells some of the most typical art from throughout Benin: wood and metal sculpture, drums, woven and painted tapestries, as well as unique items made by local craftsmen. There is no entrance fee and prices for the goods vary depending on what you're looking for and the mood of the vendor. The key to purchasing items is never to accept the first price; always bargain!

Marché Dantokpa: One of the largest open-air markets in West Africa, the Marché Dantokpa is located on Boulevard St. Michel. All types of items can be purchased here, ranging from colorful African cloth to handmade leather sandals, wood carvings, household goods, and food items. Like everywhere else in Benin, prices are not set, so you can bargain for your purchase.

Cotonou Beaches: The best place to go for a relaxing day in the sun is at the Fidjrosse beach, located in the neighborhood of Fidjrosse. Here, you can find a spot on the sand free of charge or, if you prefer, rent a little hut-type shelter for the day for as little as 5.000 FCFA. There are many bars (buvettes) and inns (auberges) found along the water here, which are ideal spots for refreshing drinks and snacks and getting out of the sun. Apart from Fidjrosse beach, other pleasant beaches are located across from the Presidential Palace and across from the hotel Croix du Sud.

TRANSPORTATION

Zemis (motorcycle taxis): One of Benin's main forms of transportation, "zemis" are motorcycle taxis found throughout Cotonou. The term "zemi" means "get there fast" in the local Fon language. If you are looking to get around town quickly, this is the fastest form of transportation. Official "zemi" drivers can be distinguished easily by their bright yellow shirts. Be aware that prices should always be discussed with the driver before you get on the motorcycle. Depending upon how far you're going, you can expect to pay between 100 and 250 FCFA, with prices slightly higher at night.

Taxis: Although yellow taxis can be stopped in Cotonou for in-town travel, taxis in Benin are mainly used for medium- to long-distance journeys. Within Cotonou, there are many taxi stations or "gares" from which travelers can depart for specific points within Benin. For example, to go to Porto Novo, you must go to the "gare de Dantokpa," found at the large market. Here, you can also find taxis to Seme, Lagos, Lomé, Abomey-Calavi, and Allada. Fares can vary, but prices are more fixed for taxis than for zemis. For example, a trip to Porto Novo generally costs 500 FCFA per person. Prices should still be discussed before you get into the taxi.

To go to Ouidah, Grand Popo, Abomey, or Lokossa from Cotonou, you can choose to leave from the center of town, in front of the Church of St. Michel (taxis are located a block away; ask for the "Gare St. Michel") or at Etoile Rouge, on north side of the city (ask for "La gare de l'Etoile Rouge"). Typically a trip to Ouidah will cost 800 CFA; Grand Popo, 1.200 CFA; Abomey, 1.500 CFA; and Lokossa, 1.300 CFA.

Bus: One of the most comfortable, reliable methods of transportation in Benin, especially when traveling to the northern part of the country, is the bus. Africa Lines has a daily schedule, with early morning departures from Cotonou to Parakou, Natitingou, and Kandi. The bus also makes several stops in large towns along the way such as Allada and Bohicon, and will pick up passengers there as well if space permits. Reservations are suggested. Prices vary depending upon your destination, but in general, Africa Lines is a good value. For example, a seat in a taxi from Cotonou to Parakou costs 6.500 CFA, and you will undoubtedly be crowded and stop several times before reaching your destination. For 7.000 CFA (only 500 F more), you can ride in the air-conditioned bus, relax in comfort, and rest assured that you will make no unnecessary stops along the way.

Nightlife/Entertainment: There is a full range of entertainment in Cotonou any day of the week. Karaoke is popular in Benin, and among the best spots for this are the Benin Marina Hotel (formerly the Sheraton), where there is a piano bar, full bar, and dance floor as well as a gambling room; Chez Alex in the Jonquet neighborhood; and Club V.I.P., located in the Ganhi neighborhood.

If you prefer dancing, you can dance till dawn at the Crystal Palace/Chez Alex in Jonquet, K.S. at the Hotel du Port, New York near the Artisan Center, and Club V.I.P. in the Ganhi neighborhood. All of these clubs, plus many others, play music ranging from Techno to the local dance music, "Zouk," and are great places to meet young Beninese and other travelers. The jazz club So What! hosts some of Benin's most talented musicians. If you are in the mood for listening or dancing to live music, this club offers the best ambiance to do both.

Every few months, a celebrated West African singer or musical group gives a concert in the municipal stadium (Stade de l'Amitié). If you are lucky enough to be in town during a performance, take advantage and go. It is a great opportunity to enjoy live music with a local audience.

There are several movie theatres around town which show popular Indian, American, French, and Nigerian films. Try Cinema Vog, across from the restaurant Festival de Glaces, or Cinema Concorde in the Akpakpa neighborhood, near the Green Horse Hotel. Entrance fees start at 500 CFA. Theatrical, dance, and musical performances are offered periodically at the French, Chinese, and American Cultural Centers as well.

LODGING

Accommodations can be found in Cotonou for every budget and taste. Among the more upscale choices are: The Benin Marina Hotel (formerly the Sheraton), Novotel Orisha, Hotel du Lac, and Hotel du Port. Click here to go to the Cotonou Hotel Directory for more hotels, contact information, and rates.

RESTAURANTS

Dining options abound in Cotonou, with cuisines ranging from French to West African to Contemporary to Oriental, and prices ranging from very cheap to very expensive. A partial list of Cotonou's best restaurants is below:

Oriental

Bangkok Terrace
Hai King
Hong Kai
Indiana
Le Jardin de Chine
L'Oriental